TITAN IN FRAME FORWARD MOUNT INSTALL PAGE 1
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Below you will see pictures and overall install procedures on how to properly install the Titan In Frame Forward Mount version using the SG plate. Also.. Take note of the tools needed and used in the install. You must have knowledge and mechanical aptitude in order to be successful installing this engine and parts. The only real special tool required is the Crank puller tool. This tool allows you to pull the old crank arms off and replace them with the Front Crank Free Wheel to trans form the bikes engine into a shifter kit bike. You must have the correct puller tool for your bike. There are 5 versions of crank puller tools. I am showing the 2 most common versions. They are not expensive and are easy to use. It is the only speciality tool required. You will see 2 other special tools being used but are not required. One is the chain breaker and the other is the cutting wheel. You do not need a Chain breaker to remove or replace chain, nor is a cutting wheel needed to cut bolts, but.. They are nice to have. You can cut chain with a file or grinding wheel and put chain back together with a master link. Not needed with a chain breaker. Also.. You can cut bolts with a hack saw, but an air compressor with a cutting wheel is much raiser and faster. But again.. The Chain Breaker and the Cutting wheel are specialty tools and not required. The only required special tool will be the Crank Puller tool. If you do not have one, you can have a bike shop pull it for you. Problem with this is, if you need to take the crank off and on again, you will have to run it to the bike shop each time to have this done. For 10 bucks or so, you can get a puller tool. They are not expensive but are required. Below is the required procedure I used to install this kit. Take your time, enjoy, and have fun.. This is a great setup and when properly installed and provides riding enjoyment unsurpassed by any other setup. Enjoy the ride..
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STEP 1
Select a bike that has a longer top tube. The bike shown has a top tube length of 23 inches. For
Riders 6 feet or taller, this is a good length top tube since it allows you to get the motor further
forward and away from your right knee so you can pedal. Shorter bikes also work fine but you may
have to turn your left knee out slightly when pedalling. Using shorter bikes and having to turn
your left knee out is not a big deal and a small price to pay for such a great ride !! But.. Keep in
mind.. A longer frame top tube allows the motor to be placed far enough forward so that you do
not have to turn your knee out at all. The top tube measurement is made at the seat post tube for
start and then measure along the top tube until you reach the head set. See picture. As you can
see. This bike has a top tube length of 23 inches. This provides plenty of room to pedal with no
knee turning.

STEP 2
Install the 2 top brackets and the single down tube bracket. Make them only finger tight. As you
can see in my install, I drilled 2 holes into my SG plate since the slot was much to high for my
install. I wanted my motor to be as far forward as possible. The bolts are really long and will be
cut shorter after we are done. In all these picture, you see them as they have been cut with my
cutting wheel. Once you get the brackets where you want them you can clamp them tight enough
so you can bolt the gear box into the bracket to make sure it does not hit the frame. If that looks
good, then bolt the motor with gear box into the bracket and check to make sure the motor and
gear box are level with respect to the bike. If that looks good.. Then.. Make all brackets really
tight. Notice I have a nut on both sides of my plate on the bolts. This allows you to move the plate
in and out with respect to the bike so that you can make sure the gear box sprocket is level with
the Crank sprocket. If not, you can move the plate in or out until it is aligned and then lock the
nuts down on both sides of the plate and make it solid and into position !!


Here is a side ways view of how mine looks with the bolts trimmed. Do not trim or cut the long
bolts until you get everything aligned. When you cut them, leave a little extra in case you need to
make minor adjustments later. Notice that I did not use the top slot . You can see my two upper
bolts with nuts where I drilled my holes. Since it is T6 alloy, it was not so hard to drill through.
Piece of cake !!
Step 3
Pull the old Crank out and install the new Free Wheel Crank. You can see the 2 Crank puller tools
I own. The one on the left also has a socket nut remover which I like. The one on the right is a
puller tool only. As you can see in the picture, my old crank is gone and my new Free Wheel Crank
is installed. I only need to put dust caps back into the center.

Step 4
Install the Drive Chain. Here I am using the 8mm setup. I did not have an 8mm chain breaker so a
punch and hammer were required to get it done.
Step 5
If you want, you can make and Install a spring loaded Idler wheel. Just a little over half way down
on the down tube, mount the ider wheel bracket as shown. There are several holes drilled in the
bracket for the spring. Pick the hole that gives the best tension. Stronger tension is better.
Although the spring loaded idler wheel is not required, I made this one and found it to be a great
addition. All you need is some steel clamps, Small wheel, nuts, bolts, and a really stout spring.